Friday Wine Tasting in the Shop, 5-8PM

August 16, 2019

Wine Traditions

Chateau du Grand Bos Graves Blanc 2017

Chateau du Grand Bos is an 18.5 hectare estate on the left bank of Bordeaux. It’s located in the appellation of Graves, in an area where vineyards were first established by the Romans 2,000 years ago. The estate has been around since 1771, and was once a leader in its region, but ceased being cultivated in the 1950s, after being damaged by the phylloxera epidemic. It lay neglected until 1988, when the current proprietor, M. André Vincent, bought the property. M. Vincent had just sold his property in St. Estephe, with the intention of retiring, but instead found himself replanting and restoring the vineyards of Chateau du Grand Bos. In 2005, the 17th century cellar where wells had been dug was transformed into a barrel room, where the natural humidity offered the perfect aging environment.

Graves is so-named for its gravelly terrain, and is the only one of Bordeaux’s regions famous for both red and white wines. The reds here are Cabernet Sauvignon dominant and are known for their elegant, mineral-scented expressions of the terroir.

M. Vincent keeps his yields extremely low, and doesn’t use any pesticides or herbicides in his vineyards.

This Graves Blanc is from 3½ hectares are planted to 60% Semillon, 30% Sauvignon Blanc, and 10% Muscadelle. The wine is fermented in barrel (50% new wood) and remains on its lees with frequent stirring for eight months. Fewer than 1,000 cases are produced.

Domaine de la Touraize Arbois Blanc “En Flandre” 2016

The domain takes its name from a small parcel of vines on a steep hillside called “La Touraize”. This was the only parcel of vines that André-Jean’s grandfather kept after World War 1. André-Jean’s father expanded the family’s vineyards and continued his father’s practice of selling his grapes to the local cooperative. In 2010 André-Jean “La Touraize” decided to begin estate bottling his production, and built a small winery on the edge of town. Each year, he produces more wine in bottle, with the goal of bottling 100% of his production. André-Jean’s 12 hectares are divided into parcels in many “lieux-dits” that surround the village of Arbois, including La Touraize, Les Corvées, En Flandre, and Les Petits Curoulets. André-Jean began farming organically in 2016 and is in conversion to gain certification. With the exception of some young Savagnin vines, all of the vineyards are hand harvested. All wines are fermented with indigenous yeasts and the total SO2 in the wines ranges from 2g to 6g.

En Flandre is 100% Chardonnay that’s fermented in 350l barrels and aged on the lees for 12 months. It’s fresh and fruity on the nose. Lively in the mouth with citrus overtones and more mineral on the finish.

Domaine Philemon Croix de la Bouscarié Rouge 2017, Gaillac

Domaine Philémon is located in Villeneuve-sur-Vere, a small village on the Vere river in between Albi and Cordes in the northeast quadrant of the Gaillac appellation. The Vieules family have had a vineyard in Villeneuve since 1804. Today the vineyard is run by Mathieu Vieules who grows wheat, sunflowers, and grapes in equal proportions. All of his land is farmed organically with the vineyard being certified in 2013. Mathieu has twenty hectares of vines in production along the Cordes plateau on south facing slopes with a calcerous soil. They are planted almost entirely to the traditional Gaillac grape varieties: Loin de L’oeil, Mauzac, and Muscadelle for the whites, and Braucol (Fer Servadou), Duras, and Jurancon Noir for the reds. A good proportion of the vines are more than fifty years old. The vines are trained in the gobelet fashion meaning that they are head pruned and yields are kept exceedingly low; 40 hl/h for the whites and 30hl/h for the reds. The harvest is done entirely by hand.

This wine is 100% Duras fermented in concrete vats. It’s an intriguing little wine, bright, woodsy, spicy, and peppery.

Verdier-Logel “Les Gourmets” 2018, Côtes du Forez

Côtes du Forez is located between the Loire and Allier rivers in the center of France, on a geological fault formed in the Tertiary Period when Africa pushed into Europe and formed the Alps. There are up to 105 volcanoes in the greater area of AOC Volcanique Du Massif Central; thirty of them are in Côtes du Forez.

Domaine Verdier-Logel is the leading estate of this small and obscure appellation where vineyards are few and far between. The Côtes du Forez hillsides are foothills of the volcanic mountains of the Massif Central and have soils of granite and volcanic composition. Due to the difficult climate only parcels with the best exposition and soils are planted to grapevines. The appellation’s laws mandate Gamay as the sole grape to be used and Verdier-Logel produces separate wines from volcanic soils, “Volcanique”, and granite soils, “Cuvée des Gourmets“. These soils impart a rich earthy fragrance to the wines which combines well with the elegant fruitiness of the Gamay grape.

Saturday, August 17th, 3-6PM: Wild Tonic Hard Jun Kombucha Tasting

Friday Wine Tasting in the Shop, 5-8PM

August 9, 2019

Processed with MOLDIV

Domaine Vetriccie Ile de Beauté Corsican Rosé 2018

This domaine has been in the same family since 1966. The sustainably farmed vineyards are spread across 120 hectares in the AOP Vin de Corse, ideally situated between the sea and the mountains. This rosé is a blend of Niellucciu, Sciaccarellu, Grenache, and Merlot, picked at night to preserve freshness. It’s easy-drinking, anytime, bang-for-your-buck wine full or citrus, red berried, and crisp acidity. Perfect for backyard parties, picnics, and secretly sipping on the seashore.

La Tour Saint Martin “Fumet” 2017, Menetou-Salon, Loire

Situated just southwest of Sancerre, Menetou-Salon is often viewed as a satellite to its more famous neighbor. The rolling vineyards are upon the same Kimmeridgian limestone as Sancerre, and the similarities of terroir are so much so that many well-known producers in Sancerre also tend vines of Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir here. Sometimes telling the difference between a glass of Sancerre and a glass of Menetou-Salon can be a challenge even to the pros.

Bertrand Minchin comes from a family that tended orchards and cereal crops. He became passionate about wine when he returned from his studies in 1987 and decided to restore and replant the vineyards of Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir that his grandfather had planted. These vines and his family’s farmstead became La Tour Saint Martin in 1994, with the construction of a winery and his first vintage of Menetou-Salon. La Tour Saint Martin is currently 17 hectares with 10 hectares of Sauvignon Blanc and 7 of Pinot Noir.

Fumet is from 30 year old-vines on Bertrand’s most Kimmeridgian soil in the village of Morogues. He treats his Fumet like a top Sancerre by fermenting it in oak vats and aging the wine for 10 months in foudre and French oak barrels. This wine is beautiful, with spring flowers on the nose and rich fleshy fruit on the palate, all balanced by taut minerality and citrus-zest acidity.

Domaine Puech-Redon “Pour de Vrai” Vin de France Sparkling Wine, Languedoc, France

Importer Louis/Dressner was introduced to Domaine Puech-Reudon by Eric Texier, who as of 2017 was helping proprietor Cyril Cuche make “unpretentious, un-sulfured wines from his meticulously farmed land.”

Puech-Redon is a 380 hectare property (large by any measure) split between 200h of cereals, 52h of vines, and over 100h of woods and garrigues. The land belonged to Cyril’s grandfather, who acquired it after WWII; Cyril’s father farmed it conventionally for 30 years. When Cyril took the reins about 20 years ago, he decided to convert to organic farming and prioritize biodiversity, a choice he explains here:

“It was a choice I imposed on myself. Besides the incredible bore of working conventionally, with it’s by the book itineraries traced step by step by lobbyists for large phytosanitary corporations, I wanted to prove that within organics, you could work in poly-culture on a large surface and still be profitable. I learned to feed the soil and not the plant, I reclaimed the link that unifies the farmer to his land. The vines have been worked organically since 2008, and the cereals since 2010. Over the last decade I’ve been able to observe the immense consequences of such work. The effect of a culture without chemicals on such a large surface is truly impressive: for the soil, the plant but even more so the animals that had deserted us slowly coming back to our lands.”

2017 was the first vintage of Pour de Vrai, a pet-nat from Cinsault and the indigenous Aramon. It’s spontaneously fermented with indigenous yeast, with no additives, and is bottled unfiltered and unfined; sulfur is very low, at 25mg/L.

Domaine des Miquettes Syrah Vin de Franc 2015, Rhone, France

Domaine des Miquettes is a 5-hectare property created by Paul Estève and Chrystelle Vareille in 2003 in the small village of Cheminas, located on a high plateau in the southern part of the Saint Joseph appellation. Paul and Chrystelle took over the farm from Paul’s family and turned one of the small farm buildings into a low-tech wine-making facility. They planted one hectare of Syrah and one of Viognier, which are classified as Vin de Pays des Coteaux de L’Ardèche. Paul had been working 3 hectares in Saint Joseph, so when the owner retired, Paul and Chrystelle took over that property as well, which was planted to mostly Syrah and a tiny bit of Marsanne. These vineyards are high in the hills, at an altitude of about 350 meters, planted on steep hillsides of granite and micaschist. The vineyards, both in Saint Joseph and the Coteaux de L’Ardèche, are certified as organic farms, and are worked throughout the year with either a tractor or horse drawn plough. All harvesting is done by hand and the fermentations occur with natural yeasts and little or no temperature adjustments.

This Syrah is from vines outside the St. Joseph AOC, on granite soils planted at 400m. The 1 hectare vineyard is plowed by horse. The wine is vinified in stainless steel with a 3 week maceration. It’s bottled with zero sulfur, and is unfined and unfiltered. It’s redolent of graphite, black pepper, purple olives, and violets.

Friday Wine Tasting in the Shop, 5-8PM

August 2, 2019

Weingut Schlossmuhlenhof Riesling Trocken (Liter) 2017, Rheinhessen, Germany

The Schloss Mühlenhof estate, started in 1846, is now on its 6th generation. It began as a rye and wheat mill until the 1920’s when the small vineyard attached became the focus for the family income…They follow what they call “ecologically healthy’ organic farming practices, avoiding chemicals and utilizing extreme green harvesting to reduce yields by nearly 50%. In the cellar they will use selected yeasts, and small amounts of SO2 to maintain freshness. This liter Riesling has been a go-to for years. It’s snappy, zesty, lemon-lime deliciousness that’s super versatile; beach, brunch, just a bottle and a sunset…it’s all good.

Fattoria di Petrognano Orci Trebbiano 2016, Tuscany, Italy

Fattoria di Petrognano is a large, 4th generation property that covers 85 hectares, 25 of which are vineyards, in the village of Bottinaccio, situated in the Lucca hills of Chianti DOCG. This area is considered the terracotta capital of Tuscany. All the wine is estate-grown and estate bottled, as well as the olive oil that’s produced here. Farming is organic. If you’re planning a Tuscan wine trip, their guest accommodations look pretty enticing.

Orci Trebbiano is 100% Trebbiano fermented and aged on the skins for 3 months in terracotta amphora. It’s copper colored, somewhat savory, rocky-mineral laced, and subtly spicy, with fresh notes of apples and apricots. Pair with seafood, mushroom risotto, fresh mozzarella, tomato salad…

Jean François Merieau La Rosée Pineau d’Aunis 2018, Touraine, France

Jean-François Merieau practices organic farming and believes in a minimalist approach to winemaking. He produces mostly single varietal bottlings, often from single parcels in the inland Loire Valley AOC of Touraine. The cellar on his property is from the 14th century and the newest building dates from WWI. You’ll often find three generations working together. His vines are old too: from 50 years for the Malbec, to over 100 year-old Pineau d’Aunis.

La Rosée is from Pineau d’Aunis vines of 45 to over 100 years old. It’s full of flowers and spices, a touch of honey, and ripe red fruit. The finish is bright, dry, and long. Works well with spicy grilled poultry, fish in yellow curry, white beans with rosemary and garlic…

G D Vajra, Clare JC Nebbiolo 2018, Langhe, Italy

G.D. Vajra was officially established in 1972 (named after Aldo’s father, Giuseppe Domenico) but the family roots in the region go back over two centuries. Aldo Vajra has been making wine here since the late 60s. Today the estate is close to 60 hectares, 10 of which are planted to Nebbiolo for Barolo production. Farming is organic, grapes are hand-harvested, and aging is done in traditional Slavonian casks. Aldo and Milena’s children Giuseppe, Francesca and Isidoro are now carrying on the family business and traditions.

Giuseppe is making this Nebbiolo in the Metodo Ancestrale style that harks back to Thomas Jefferson’s time that slipped out of fashion in the 1950s: fermentation starts in the tank on the skins and finishes in the bottle, creating a slightly off-dry, lightly sparkling wine (the fizz might subside before the bottle is finished). Serve with a slight chill with pizza, pasta, salumi, olives, cheese, etc…

Friday Wine Tasting in the Shop, Heatwave Edition

July 19, 2019

Tonight’s tasting is all light and summery, and tomorrow Granny Squibb is in the house with some cool cocktail creations made with Rhodium Gin & Vodka from local newcomers Rhode Island Spirits. Swing by, we’ll have the AC cranking.

Click here for newsletter and notes!

Friday Wine Tasting in the Shop, 5-8PM

July 12, 2019

Shiba Wichern Auxerrois 2017, Willamette Valley, Oregon

Notes courtesy of Chris Wichern: “Our main goals are balance and elegance. As it turns out a great way to do this is via minimal intervention during ferment and cellaring. On the other hand it requires that we spend a lot of time in the vineyard during the growing season and during harvest for field sorting. One thing that Akiko (Shiba) insists on doing differently from a very big portion of the industry -big or small- is actually work the vineyards ourselves. Our grapes don’t grow in picking bins on flatbed trucks. She refuses to hire a crew to do the field work. Almost every step is done by Akiko, friends & family, and me. This gives Akiko such a high level of control and understanding of the grapes, the importance of which should not be under estimated.

Finally, Akiko much like the Japanese cliché, observes, learns and collects what she deems to be the best practices for wine-making. Implementing what she learns is not always easy and sometimes doesn’t work out as we expect, but that is also key to the learning process. Over the past 5 harvests we have worked out a lot of kinks. Give us about 20-25 more years and we might actually admit to knowing what we are doing…”

Auxerrois is widely planted in Alsace, where it is frequently blended with Pinot Blanc, although rarely named on labels. It’s slightly fuller, and lower acid than Pinot Blanc, and is also popular in Luxembourg, where it’s appreciated as a low acid white. This Willamette Auxerrois is leesy and yeasty, a little bit like the Shiba rosé we all know and love. It’s light and floral too, and is perfect on a table full of summery fare.

Domaine Romuald Petit, Bourgogne Blanc Chardonnay 2018, Saint-Vérand, France

This 7-hectare estate is made up of small plots of different age & origin that are farmed without chemical fertilizers, herbicides or pesticides. There are young vines planted by winemaker Romuald Petit, and others over a hundred years old. Each parcel produces grapes with very different qualities that are vinified separately & assembled just before bottling.

Old vines combined with heavy clay and fossil rich limestone soils add depth and mineral intensity to this un-oaked chardonnay. After vinification it’s left on its lees for 8 months, adding further textural nuances and preserving freshness and acidity.

Domaine Eugene Carrel Vin de Savoie Rosé 2018, Savoie, France

We tasted this wine when it first arrived back in April. We just got another stack so we’re tasting it again!

Domaine Eugene Carrel is located in Savoie, in eastern France, in the village of Jongieux. It’s situated on 59 acres of steep slopes on the Chavaz Mountain. This is where the French Alps begin, and it is a region famous for cheese, vermouth, and part of the Tour de France bike race.

Winemaker Olivier Carrel represents the third generation to run the estate. They grow all the traditional varieties here including Jacquere, Altesse, Gamay, Pinot, and Mondeuse on steep slopes they work by hand, sustainably, with the goal of fostering healthy, biodiverse vineyards. Domaine Carrel is poured in every restaurant and bistro in Savoie.

This wine is mostly Gamay with about 20% Mondeuse, which which adds juicy, peppery notes to this light & fruity sipper.

COS Nero di Lupo 2015, Sicily

COS winery was founded in 1980 by three friends, Giambattista Cilia, Giusto Occhipinti, and Cirino Strano; the initials of their last names form the winery’s name. The winery itself dates back to the 1880s, when demand for Sicilian wine was high due to phylloxera not yet reaching the island. COS put the appellation of Cerasuolo di Vittorio on the map, and is most well known for Pithos Rosso, which is aged in amphora instead of oak. They have never used any chemicals at COS, and have been practicing biodynamic farming and winemaking since 2000, and have been certified organic since 2007.

Nero di Lupo is 100% Nero d’Avola sourced from estate vineyards of 15-20 year old vines, planted at 300 meters elevation. Spontaneous fermentation takes place in concrete tanks with indigenous yeast; the wine is further aged in concrete for approximately 1 year, and another few months in bottle before release. This is a softly fruity, balanced wine, with notes of cherry and smoke.

Friday Wine Tasting in the Shop, 5-8PM

June 28, 2019

Peter Buckley from Vineyard Road pouring.

Domaine des Cognettes Clisson Muscadet 2013

The village of Clisson is a mini-appellation within Muscadet Sevre et Maine. The vines (in this case over 60 years old) grow on poor, hard, compact granite with little clay, and a lot of quartz and mica over hard granite.

Brothers Stephane and Vincent Perraud work organically on their small property, as well as patiently. This Muscadet (100% Melon de Bourgogne) is pressed in whole bunches, fermented with native yeasts and very low SO2, with fermentation and aging in underground vats for 44 months. May need decanting…

Domaine Pattes Loup, Burgundy

Notes from the importer: Domaine Pattes Loup is one of the most exciting estates to emerge from Chablis in recent years (Pattes Loup means “wolf’s paws”). Thomas Pico started his tiny estate in Courgis in 2005, just outside of Chablis, under the wing of his friends and fellow organic Chablisiens, Alice and Olivier de Moor. He inherited 2.4 hectares of vines from his family’s estate that had been producing correct, but uninspiring wines. Fortunately, most of his vines were planted by his grandfather in selection massale in the hillsides near Courgis and Preys, the two highest altitude villages within Chablis, with vineyards up to 300 meters. Motivated to take a qualitative leap in a new direction, and against the wishes of his father, he immediately began a program of strict yield control and a conversion to Organic Viticulture—a rarity in Chablis, and a feat of extreme diligence in this often inhospitable vine growing region.

Thomas Pico Blanc, Vin de France 2017

Pico Blanc is Chardonnay, Gros Manseng, and Clairette from organically farmed vineyards, fermented in stainless steel. It’s a touch creamy, with orchard fruits throughout, and fresh acidity on the finish.

Chablis Vent d’Ange 2017

Importer notes: From vines averaging 55 years old mostly selection massale plantings by Pico’s grandfather around the villages Courgis and Preys, south-west of central Chablis. Vineyards are approximately 300 meters high making these two of Chablis highest altitude villages. All vineyard work is done by hand. Yields are kept small at the domaine, approximately 28 hectoliters per hectare.

Pico uses a “champagne press” at the domaine to allow for a very slow and delicate press of the grapes. All juice moves downstairs to the vinification settling room by gravity through a drain at the bottle of the press. All wines are fermented using only indigenous yeasts and élevage is slow and long lasting up to 14 months. A combination of stainless steel and cement eggs are used for the Chablis Vent d’Ange. The juice is racked and blended and will be blended again before bottling. Each parcel is vinified separately and blended after one year of fermentation. Bottled without fining and filtration. It’s aged for 14 months on the lees in a combination of stainless steel, cement egg, and used barrique.

Elisabetta Foradori, Ampeleia Unlitro 2018, IGT Costa Toscana

Elisabetta took over the grape growing and winemaking duties at the family estate in Trentino, Italy, when her father died young in 1985. Since then she has transformed the estate from the ground up, converting to biodynamic viticulture and bringing the region back to valuing quality over quantity.

Ampeleia is a joint venture from Elisabetta and a few friends. Unlitro is a liter of glou-glou. It’s mostly Alicante (Grenache) and some Carignan and Alicante Bouschet from vineyard planted at 200-250 meters above sea level, then fermented and aged for 6 months in cement. Organic, very low SO2. Put a little chill on it, toss it back.

Domaine Guiberteau Saumur Rouge 2018

Importer notes: Romain Guiberteau is the third generation on the estate, and things have changed radically since he took over. Romain’s grandfather was a pillar in the community of Saumur before and after World War II, long serving as the head of the local growers’ coop. That coop long benefited from the grapes grown on Guiberteau’s land until Romain returned from college.

Today, Romain oversees the organic farm and does all the winemaking at the estate. His vines date back to the years just after World War II and include some of the prime sites in and around Saumur. Romain’s father Robert, a medical doctor, assisted in the transformation of the estate and you are likely to meet him at a tasting, explaining the history of the wines and the vines his mother and father planted.

Cabernet Franc from 3 parcels of over 60 year old vines grown on limestone. 100% de-stemmed, indigenous yeast fermentation. Aged for 6 months in tank.

Friday Wine Tasting in the Shop, 5-8PM

June 21, 2019

Leigh Ranucci is pouring a selection of French wine from the Wine Traditions portfolio.

Marcel Giraudon Bourgogne Aligoté 2018, Chitry, France

The Giraudon family has been farming and making wine in Chitry (one of four viticultural communes of the Auxerrois) for centuries. Their vineyards are on hillsides of Kimmeridgian chalky marl, the same one finds in Grand Cru Chablis. In fact, in the 19th century the wines of Chitry were sold under the name Chablis. In 1929 they were given the name “Bourgogne des Environs de Chablis”. Currently, they go by Chitry, or Bourgogne Chitry.

Aligoté accounts for only about 5% of Burgundy’s total vineyard area; it’s the region’s little known “other white grape”. In Chitry though, it makes up 40% of vines planted. Marcel Giraudon keeps yields low, harvests by hand, and allows the wine to undergo malolactic fermentation to temper its naturally high acidity. That acidity makes this wine a perfect partner for oysters, fried seafood, & salads.

Domaine du Crêt de Bine “La Cuvée de Florence” 2018 Beaujolais Blanc

The Subrin family farms this 5 hectare property in the village of Sarcy, situated on a high plateau tucked between the Monts Beaujolais and the Monts Lyonnais in the southwest corner of the Beaujolais appellation. The Subrin’s vineyard is planted on granite with significant deposits of quartz and feldspar. On average, the vines are 40 years old. François, Marie-Therèse, and daughter Florence farm organically and biodynamically. To insure maximum health and ripeness for their grapes, they severely limit the yields and harvest late into the growing season.

We tasted a barrel sample of this wine back in March with Florence herself. The chalky, silty minerality of the barrel sample has been complimented by delicately floral characteristics coming to the fore. It’s beautifully balanced and elegant. 100% Chardonnay.

Domaine du Cros Marcillac Rosé, 2018

The appellation of Marcillac is in southwestern France, nestled in the mountain range known as the Massif Central. At 22 hectares, Domaine du Cros is the largest independent producer in the appellation; Philippe Teulier and his family have been instrumental in reestablishing the reputation of Marcillac’s wines. Back in the early 80s, the family (then on its 4th generation in Marcillac) only had one hectare of vines. Since then they have added to their hectares through purchasing and renting. Philippe Teulier’s vines lie at elevations as high as 450 meters on a few different hillsides that surround the village of Clairvaux. Much of his vineyard is terraced and the soil is an iron rich clay known locally as “rougier” with outcroppings of limestone. His wines are made from one grape type, the local grape of Marcillac, Fer Servadou.

This rosé is from 25 year old vines planted on steep slopes of limestone (at the top) and rougier. The grapes are hand-harvested, and once pressed, the skins stay in contact with the juice for 6-12 hours until the desired pink hue is achieved. It’s then fermented in stainless steel and bottled in the spring. It’s a red-fruited, spicy rosé that’s perfect grill-side.

Domaine Billard Père et Fils Hautes Côtes de Beaune Rouge, 2017

Domaine de Billard is made up of 12.5 hectares of organically farmed vineyards in different appellations throughout the Cotes de Beaune. Their largest holdings are in the Hautes Cotes de Beaune with other small plots located in Saint Romain, Saint Aubin 1er Cru, Auxey Duresses, and Beaune. Yields are kept low through the use of cover crops and severe pruning. All the vines are harvested by hand and only indigenous yeasts are used for fermentation. Jérôme’s father sold his wine to the local cooperative, but Jérôme is now estate bottling his entire production.

Note from Wine Traditions: The Billard HCB rouge comes from a plot of 4 hectares of alluvial clay soil. It is extracted by foot pressing, respecting the delicate nature of Pinot Noir, then matured in barrel for 10 months. A rigorous bunch selection is made in the vineyard before harvest ensuring ripe, healthy grapes; resulting in a real purity of Pinot Noir fruit expression.

Friday Wine Tasting in the Shop, 5PM-8PM

June 14th, 2019

Plus Willie’s Superbrew pours tomorrow, 3-6PM

And other tastings in the shop, too…scroll to the bottom to see those.

Guilhem et Jean-Hugues Goisot, Saint-Bris “Exogyra Virgula” 2017, Burgundy

Goisot has been hit hard by frost and hail in recent vintages, and has been touch-and-go as far as availability goes (and the ability to continue producing wine). Their 2017 Aligoté vintage was 1/6 of normal. Guilhem Goisot represents the fourth generation to farm this family property (organically and biodynamically), along with his father Jean-Hughes. They are known for their risky late-harvests, made riskier by climate change and the myriad problems it brings with it. The vineyards of 15-50 year-old vines are planted on a ridge of limestone that stretches from Sancerre to Chablis and Champagne. 

This Saint Bris is from vines grown on Jurassic soil of kimmeridgien clay with fosilized oyster shells (Exogyra Virgula). Saint Bris is a small AOC within Burgundy, and the only place where Sauvignon Blanc is allowed. Apparently the grape found its way to the region after the phylloxera blight that wiped out Chardonnay. Saint Bris used to be considered part of Chablis, but geographical reassignments post-phylloxera left it to fend for itself. This wasn’t necessarily a bad thing, since by the 1970s the Sauvignon Blanc here was being recognized for its high quality.  

This wine is a delicious, savory, snappy Sauvignon Blanc that weaves garden-green notes with smoke, apple, walnuts, and a slightly oxidative bouquet. It’s a fun Sancerre alternative, and makes for a conversation-piece aperitif, and of course works very well with shellfish, like oysters.

Domaine les Capréoles, Gamay Rosé Cossinelle 2018, Beaujolais

In 2014, Cédric and Catherine Lecareux produced their first vintage on this old property of 3.5 hectares in Regnie-Durette. Two years later they added an additional 2ha of vines. Cédric is a trained agronomist and oenologist who spent 15 years working in the business before acquiring his own property. Everything here is done by hand, naturally, without chemicals, and very little SO2. They are currently working toward Demeter certification, and their wines are vegan-friendly. 

This rosé is fruity, youthful, and aromatic, punctuated by red fruit, and zesty acidity.

Chidaine Touraine Rouge 2017, Loire

Francois and Manuela Chidaine operate this second generation estate in Montlouis. The couple has been leaders in the natural wine movement, farming organically and biodynamically for decades. They have embraced no-till farming, known in the US as ”Carbon Farming”, (based on Masanobu Fukuoka’s One Straw Revolution) which involves implementing practices that are known to improve the rate at which CO2 is removed from the atmosphere and converted into plant material and soil organic matter. In addition to a range of blended and single-parcel Montlouis, they also produce a couple of wines from top vineyards in Vouvray, as well as several easy-drinking value wines from purchased grapes from nearby vineyards.

This red is a blend of Cot (Malbec), Cabernet Franc, and Pineau d’Aunis from organic and biodynamically farmed vineyards throughout Touraine. It’s fermented in stainless steel and aged in neutral barrels. Only 350 cases were made of this soft and spicy red. It’s a beautiful deep purple, and has an intriguing nose that hints at violets, cherries, tobacco, and fresh green onions. On the palate there’s ripe dark fruit, black pepper, cassis, and herbs. The finish is pleasantly astringent, with light tannins. This new arrival to our Best Buys table is a versatile crowd-pleaser, with a price-tag to please a crowd as well.

Azimut Negre 2015, Penedes, Spain

Azimut is a project of the Suriol family, known for making estate-grown and bottled organic wine and vintage Cava in the Alt Penedes province of Barcelona, Catalunya. Azimut comes from grapes they purchase from their neighbors, all of whom also farm organically. 

The grapes for this wine come from one 5-hectare vineyard situated at 250 meters altitude, on a slight slope with southern exposure and morning and afternoon Mediterranean breezes. It’s a blend of 40% Ull de Llebre (Tempranillo), 20% Garnatxa, 20% Monastrell, 10% Syrah, and 10% Samsó (Carignan). It’s fermented in stainless steel with indigenous yeasts, then goes into concrete tanks for 8-15 months for malolactic fermentation and battonage for 3 months. It’s unfined, filtered through soft-paper, and only lightly sulfured at bottling. 

This is a medium-bodied, dark-fruited, earthy, lightly herbal, BBQ-friendly red. Pairs well with a fire pit. 

Friday, June 21st, 5-8PM: Leigh Ranucci will pour a selection of wine from the Wine Traditions portfolio, including a Cret de Bine Beaujolais blanc that we tasted with the producer as a barrel sample a few months back. It’s delicious! 

Tuesday, June 25th, 4-6:30PM: Ian Augustine pours for the Daylover CSA pickup (see below for info). 

Wednesday, June 26th, 5-7PM: Ismael Gozalo of Microbio and Ariana Rolich will pour wines they make (Ismael) and import (Ariana). 

Friday, June 28th, 5-8PM: Peter Buckley will pour a selection of wines from the Vineyard Road portfolio. 

Pop in to one or all of these tastings, the cool stuff will be flowing! 

Tuesdays, 4-6:30PM, through October

Daylover is a food and wine project by Ian Augustine that is anchored by a curated, experimental CSA. Vegetables, flowers and herbs come from a garden that is located at Osamequin Farm in Seekonk, MA, which is host to an emergent cooperative farming project. Every Tuesday from 4-6:30PM, Ian will offer a tasting of a few wines alongside the CSA pickup. The wines will aim to compliment that week’s CSA share, but also the garden/market hauls of those not participating in the Daylover CSA. From time to time he may also have some extra flowers or vegetables for sale. Come taste! And follow on Instagram @day_lover

Don’t forget: Father’s Day is this Sunday; if you’re in the market for a drinkable gift, we’ve got something for every taste and price-point, from traditional, to nerdy, to fine and rare. We’re here and happy to help you find the perfect present!

Friday Wine Tasting in the Shop, 5-8PM

May 31, 2019

Gramona “La Cuvee” Gran Reserva Brut Cava 2013, Penedes, Spain

The Gramona family winemaking history goes back to 1816 in Penedes; in 1921 the Gramona name began to appear on bottles of Cava. Today they are one of the few remaining family owned estates, most others have been purchased by large corporations over the last 50 or so years. Jaume Gramona is in charge of viticulture and winemaking. Grapes are sourced from 124 hectares of vineyards that are farmed biodynamically – 60 hectares that the Gramona family owns and 64 hectares of purchased fruit from growers that are practicing biodynamics under the Alianzas por la Terra, an organization created by Gramona to promote biodynamics in the Penedès.

Wines here receive long aging. Almost 90% of Cava in general is aged for just 9 months before release; at Gramona, wines are aged for a minimum of 30 months, and one, Enoteca, is aged for 12-15 years. This 2013 Gran Reserve was aged for 43 months before being disgorged. It’s 70% Xarello, 30% Macabeo bottled with 5 grams of sugar. It’s medium-bodied, lively, with notes of stone fruit, lemon peel, butter, and spices.  

Teutonic Foiled Cucumber and Candied Mushroom

Teutonic focuses on single vineyard, single varietal wines that are dry farmed and made in a precise, Germanic style.

The Teutonic MO is old vines, cold climate, high elevation, dry farmed, old wood and wild yeast. Or, as proprietors Olga and Barnaby Tuttle put it: old and cold, high and dry, wood and wild. They are inspired by the wines of Mosel, Germany, where they also happen to make wine, and they import wine from the region as well. The combination of old vines and dry farming means that vines go super deep into the earth in search of nutrients, and therefore absorb layers of terroir-driven flavors. Teutonic is a member of the DRC (Deep Roots Coalition), a group that promotes “sustainable and terroir-driven viticulture without irrigation”. 

Producer notes: 

2018 Foiled Cucumber, White Wine, Pear Blossom Vineyard, Columbia Gorge

Foiled Cucumber is our gateway wine. Once you try it, you’ll need more of our wines. It’s crisp, light and refreshing and beautifully aromatic, with notes of honeydew melon. What is this white wine? It’s 100% Gewurztraminer! Why “Foiled Cucumber?” Watch Spinal Tap (again).

2018 Candied Mushroom, Willamette Valley

This wine is 100% Riesling from Crow Valley Vineyard. The fruit arrived toward the end of harvest with 100% botrytis (aka Noble Rot). We macerated it on its skins for four days before pressing it off. Then the wine was inoculated with a flor yeast. It’s medium dry in sweetness level and off-the-charts in flavor! We don’t know when we can make something like this again.

Sesti Rosato 2018, Tuscany, Italy

Giuseppe Maria “Giugi” Sesti is a Venetian who studied music, art, and astronomy, the last becoming his profession. He met his wife Sarah in North Wales, and in 1975 moved to Tuscany, where they bought the abandoned ruins of the hamlet and castle of Argiano. They slowly cleared the land and restored the buildings, had four children, and Giugi continued to write books on astronomy and act as vice-director of a local Baroque opera festival. At the same time he spent his spare time in local wine cellars and vineyards, absorbing knowledge wherever he went. In 1991 he planted his own vineyards. In 1999 Giugi and Sarah’s only daughter Elisa joined the estate full time, working in the vineyards and making wine. They work organically and biodynamically, and produce about 5,000 cases annually.

The Sesti Rosato is 100% Sangiovese from Brunello di Montalcino grapes, but picked earlier than grapes destined for Brunello. Think of this like a chillable light red, or a more serious, substantial rosé. It’s dry, a little grippy, with dusty earth aromas, and a bit of cherries and violets. Bright acidity makes it a perfect pair for salty cured meats, olives, and hard cheeses.  

Gaspard Cabernet Franc 2017, Loire Valley

Gaspard is a Jenny  & François house label. The grapes are sourced from a winemaker in the Loire Valley who makes the wines to their specifications. 

This is 100% Cabernet Franc from 25-60 year old vines planted on clay and limestone. Grapes are hand-harvested and destemmed. The juice remains in contact with the skins for 5-6 weeks. Elevage takes place in cement tanks for a gentle introduction of oxygen to soften the wine. The wine is bottled lightly filtered with a small addition of sulfur. 

Beer Tasting Saturday, 3-6PM

We’ll pour Whalers Blockstar and Foolproof Mango Vango, along with another summer-friendly brew.