Friday, May 25, 2018, we have back to back tastings.
3-5PM: Willie’s Superbrew pours their two new brews.
5-8PM: our regularly scheduled Friday wine tasting (notes are below).
Saturday, 3-6PM: Wakefield’s Whalers Brewing in the shop.
Friday Wine Tasting in the Shop
We couldn’t improve upon the importer and Terry Thiese notes for this wine, so here they are: Nicolas Chiquet farms 23 heactares in the Valle de la Marne in the villages of Ay, Dizy, Hautvillers and Mareuil-sur-Ay. All of the fruit (including that which is used in the non-vintage cuvée) comes from premiere and grand cru grapes. Nicolas does not employ any oak aging at Gaston Chiquet; he believes that concentration, fruit maturity and malolactic fermentation impart enough body and texture to make aging in barrel unnecessary.
Terry Thiese notes: “In essence this wine combines the pumpernickel-sweetness of Meunier with a walnutty richness typical of this part of the Marne, and what makes it most wonderful is that it’s both extremely articulate and openly friendly. It is class defined and enacted. If you think such qualities are “mainstream”, shame on you. Such qualities are rare, my friend, and you do not have the privilege to take them for granted. It’s 40% PM, 35% CH and 20% PN. There’s 30% reserve wine, which includes some 2011, which one does—alas—notice. Otherwise the wine is saltier than usual, with somewhat more power and length.” 45 months on the lees.
Domaine Cheveau Saint Véran “Terroir Davayé” 2016
Domaine Cheveau was established in 1950 by André Cheveau; today his two grandsons run the estate, which is situated on 14 hectares around Solutré-Pouilly, and extends into Davayé in the Maconnais, and Saint Amour in Beaujolais. No fertilizers are used and all harvesting is done by hand; the wines are fermented and vinified parcel by parcel. Total estate production is fewer than 5,000 cases.
This Saint Veran is 100% Chardonnay from younger vines of 15 to 20 years of age. It’s sourced from vineyards in the village of Davayé, part of the Saint Veran appellation. It’s fermented and aged in stainless steel for eight or so months before being bottled. Dry, finessed, understated, and produced in very small quantities, so only about 100 cases make it to the US annually.
Domaine Lucien Crochet Sancerre Rosé 2017
Lucien Crochet was formally established when Lucien Crochet married the daughter of Lucien Picard, joining the two estates of Lucien Picard and André Crochet (Lucien’s father). Lucien Picard was one of the first growers to bottle his own wine in Sancerre, and then sell them primarily to restaurants in Paris. Over 30 years, Lucien Crochet expanded upon his father-in-law’s work, and expanded the domaine as well, so that it is now over 38 hectares, 29 of which are planted to Sauvignon Blanc, 9 to Pinot Noir. The vines are planted on clay and limestone, and they’ve been farmed organically since 1989.
Only 6% of Sancerre is rosé, mostly because making good wine from red grapes in Sancerre is best left to very good producers, preferably with help from warmer weather. This is one of those rare instances where climate change makes things better.
Domaine Joseph Dorbon Arbois Rouge Trousseau Vielle Vigne 2013, Jura
Joseph Dordon established his domaine in 1996 with about 3 hectares of vineyards in AOC Arbois, situated in the village of Vadans. His vines are planted on hillsides, facing south, at approximately 1000 feet altitude. Though he’s not yet certified organic, he works as responsibly as possible, avoiding chemicals, hand-harvesting, hoeing by horse, allowing weeds to grow…
This old vine (40+ years) Trousseau is de-stemmed and fermented for 15 or so days with the pulp, and then aged for one year in stainless steel, to keep the freshness of Trousseau. The importer notes state that this wine is “open and delicious with fresh, tart fruit, underlying notes of dried herbs and a light, tannic backbone. The color is an attractive pale red tinged with a slight orange hue. High-toned and bright, this wine could easily be confused for a red Burgundy from the Hautes Cotes de Beaune.” Capable of aging for 10-15 years. And they have a very cute cottage for rent.
Here’s a cool article in The Guardian about natural wine…it mentions trailblazer Marcel Lapierre, whose 2017 Morgon we just got a case of yesterday, now produced by his son Mathieu and daughter Camille.