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There's a lot going on this weekend, from Father's Day to the Juneteenth Festival to PrideFest...and so far it looks like the weather will cooperate. Oh and the official start of summer is just days away, so why not celebrate it with some very limited Kermit Lynch rosé? 2021 was a tough vintage for parts of France, and yields were down A LOT. So there's just not much wine. We would suggest getting your mitts on these STAT.
Here's some info on the all-French rosé line-up pictured above:
Guillaume Demoulin’s great-grandfather Eugène bought this eighteenth-century Southern Rhone château in 1936, the same year as the establishment of the Tavel AOC, which is situated west of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, on the southern edge of Lirac. Unfortunately the vineyards were in great disrepair and it wasn’t until 1960 that the vines were producing wines worthy of Demoulin’s standards. Tavel is the only A.O.C. entirely made up of rosé, so no red or white wine can bear the name of the cru. The final blend must be between 30 & 60% Grenache.
This Tavel is a blend of 60% Grenache, 13% Clairette, 13% Syrah, 10% Cinsault, 3% Mourvèdre, and 1% Bourboulenc from vines over 30 years old, planted on sand, marl, limestone, clay, and quartz. Fermentation is for 20 days in cement, then it’s aged in enamel-lined tanks and stainless steel for 6-9 months. The wine is full of flowers, watermelon, blackberries, and Rhone-stony-freshness and spicy hillside herbs.
Farming at Trinquevedel is certified Haute Valeur Environnementale, a certification supported by the Ministry of Agriculture and verified by independent organizations. To earn this certification you must have measurable protection of biodiversity of flora and fauna in the vineyard and microbial life in the soil (using minimal copper or insecticides), all fertilizer must come from organic matter, and water use must be measured, reduced, or eliminated. More info (in French) here.
The high elevation vineyards of Ermitage du Pic Saint Loup were first planted in 1992 by the Ravaille brothers (Xavier, Pierre, and Jean-Marc). This land had traditionally been a place for sheep farming and cheese production, not so much for vines. But the Ravailles family had been in Languedoc for over a thousand years, and were familiar with the complexity of the terroir, and knew serious wines could be coaxed from the unique microclimate; though the summers are typically very dry, here at the ermitage the cool nights and winter rainfall allow for long ripening of the grapes and sufficient water supply. Farming has been biodynamic since 1999 (certified organic since 2012) and winemaking is as non-interventionist as possible.
This rosé is 40% Syrah, 30% Mourvèdre, 20% Grenache, and 10% Cinsault from 10-50 year old vines planted on red clay and marly limestone. Fermentation is spontaneous with indigeneous yeast, it goes through full malo, and only a little sulfur is added at bottling. The importer urges us to “think of this rosé not as a pink wine that happens to come from Pic Saint Loup. Instead, consider it a terroir-driven wine that just happens to be pink.”
Here's a link to the above French map, which in turn brings you to individual region maps.
The name of this estate in the Loire Valley means "the place where the larks sing." The vineyards, situated just across the river from Chinon and all planted to Cabernet Franc, have been in the same family for seven generations. The vineyards are full southern exposure on limestone and clay, with a subsoil of porous, chalky tuffeau; the tuffeau also provides cellars ideal for aging. Thierry keeps yields low and protects his harvest by bringing the grapes in quickly and keeping them cool during destemming. Farming is certified Haute Valeur Environnementale. The Boucards (now Thierry and Christine) make some of the most age-worthy wines in the region, but this chirpy little number is made for drinking now. It’s fermented fully dry in stainless steel, with no malo—so it’s crisp and fresh, with a touch of dried flowers, and lots of zippy, food-friendly acidity.
Local archives show that a Jean Neveu lived in the village of Verdigny, in Sancerre (the famous hilltop town on the left bank of the upper Loire) as early as the 12th century; family documents prove that they owned and ran an agricultural estate in 1641. Documents also show that grapevines made up part of the property in the 19th century but were destroyed in the phylloxera epidemic. It wasn’t until the after World War II that grapevines became an important part of the domaine again, but then nearly all of the wine was sold in bulk up through the 1960s.
Roger Neveu, father to current owners Éric and Jean-Philippe, was the one to make and bottle wine under the family name, selling it directly to friends, restaurants, and eventually, importers. Éric joined the family biz in 1977 after studying winemaking in Beaune. Jean-Philippe followed 10 years later, after getting his degree in accounting.
Sancerre Rosé “Le Colombier” is Pinot Noir from 20 year-old vines planted on clay and limestone, and from vineyard areas totaling 2.7 hectares. Farming is sustainable. This is a crisp, acid & mineral-driven, lip-smacking rosé.
We also got a little bit of Hippolyte Reverdy Sancerre Rosé 2021, $34.99, but not enough to warrant it being in the picture, or even to write notes. It's very good. We're sad there isn't more.
Speaking of Sancerre, we have a little bit of Gérard Boulay. We tried to get the rosé but missed out on that...happens!
Here's more info on Boulay:
The Boulay family domaine traces its history back to 1380; the land records for that year mention a Jean Boulay as the owner of vineyards in Chavignol. The Clos de Beaujeu in Chavignol was already known way back then for the quality of its white wine, even though Sancerre was known for its reds up until phylloxera destroyed the vineyards. Now Gérard Boulay owns the 9 hectares of vines, 8 of which are on the slopes of Chavignol, on Kimmeridgian or “terre blanche” soils (similar to the soils in Chablis), which he works by hand and organically since 1990. He planted the youngest vines at the domaine himself in 1972. The wines ferment naturally in tank and are aged in in a mix of foudres and used 300L barrels, except for the Chavignol Tradition, which only sees 5% used wood. Gerard adds no yeast and little to no SO2 during vinfication. He describes his role as one of “surveillance” to make sure nothing goes wrong. In general he works by instinct, “au feeling” because he wants to “let the wine live” and tries not to interfere with the natural process. “C’est la nature qui fait le vin” (Nature makes the wine).
Click here if you want to see and/or purchase them on the e-comm, sans notes.
And to finish up the Sancerre-train, we have one mag of 2019 Claude Riffault left in stock. Could make a nice gift with a dozen oysters from Fearless? Just sayin...
We came across this recipe from Nicole Taylor's Watermelon and Red Birds last week in the Washington Post, and now we definitely want to make it.
That looks and sounds so good! We're hoping that link works for the recipe. We also want to make the Devil's Food Icebox cake.
MONTHLY WINE CLUB
Join our Monthly Wine Club! We're starting with one tier for $100, which includes:
Three to four curated wines per month, with producer notes, pairing suggestions/recipes, and an occasional wild card—something fun that we think compliments what’s in the box. Price includes delivery within RI, which will be scheduled the second week of each month. In-store pick-up is also an option.
Pictured above is the March club, all from the Wine Traditions portfolio.
We specialize in, and feature Rhode Island's largest selection of, organic, natural and small-production wine and grower-Champagne, as well as numerous spirits, sakes, and craft beers, ranging in price from the everyday to the special occasion.
Gift cards available in any amount.
12% discounts on a case of wine, mixed or otherwise.
Our Blue Tag section is buy one/get one half off – everyday.
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We offer statewide delivery Tuesday through Saturday with a $50 minimum order; Providence and immediate surrounding areas can be same day depending on time received, next delivery day for all other areas–except Sunday/Monday.
WE ARE STILL WEARING MASKS
Also: we have two air purifiers going full time at the shop (front and back), we keep our front door open as much as we can, we have fans blowing air out the door, and we have an exhaust fan running in back.
We don't know when we'll restart tastings. Just riding every wave, seeing where we land...
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